Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
