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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.